Tempting kebabs, scented biryani, and airy, ethereal desserts.
The northern Indian city of Lucknow has consistently been a haven for gastronomes, with inhabitants and visitors alike praising its exquisite cuisine.
A Global Honor
Recently, The United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organization recognised it as a UNESCO Creative City for Gastronomy – placing it on a prestigious roster of world cities and igniting hopes that it will highlight Lucknow's exceptional food. With this designation, it becomes part of a global network of cities cities across over 100 countries committed to promoting "innovation as a driver of city development that is sustainable".
The honor "stands as proof of its deep-rooted gastronomic legacy and vibrant food ecosystem," according to a official from Unesco's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is only the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was picked in 2019 – to earn a spot in this highly sought-after list of seventy urban centers internationally.
An Urban Center with a Culinary Soul
The honor for this historic city arrives as hardly a shock to its residents or passionate food lovers. Many share the view that it is "an honor long overdue".
With the UNESCO accolade, this cherished, chaotic, and eclectic city – the capital of India's biggest state – is at last in the global gaze for what has perennially characterized its essence: an profound love for food.
"'What will be cooked, how will it be cooked' is a ongoing dialogue from waking up until night in most homes," explains a local cultural expert. "And you are often assessed by the standard of food that emerges from your kitchen."
An Imperial Food Tradition
The Nawabi City – as it's widely known after its 18th and 19th-century affluent Muslim rulers – is noted for its melt-in-the-mouth kebabs and a singular take on biryani that were invented, perfected, and taken to extraordinary levels in their royal kitchens.
These kitchens of the nobility were epicenters of food experimentation, blending Persian and native Indian styles to create what became known as the food of Awadh.
It was during this time that Lucknow's most famous kebabs were created. Legend has it that the mutton galouti was devised to cater to an ageing nawab who had lost his teeth. His cooks minced the meat with papaya, kesar, and a blend of spices and made it so fine that it required no chewing.
But perhaps the greatest contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a low, leisurely heat, with the container's cover tightly closed with dough.
A Diverse Culinary Landscape
Besides the obvious kebabs and biryani, the cooks also built up a repertoire of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a decadent bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is far more than kebabs and biryani – the region is additionally a dream for plant-based eaters.
The local Baniya community's cuisine not only celebrates local ingredients but also offers the city its meticulously prepared Indian desserts, sweets, and unique street food, like chaat – zesty fried snacks.
Time-Tested Food Joints
Almost on many street corners, there are tiny kiosks and kiosks – hidden delights that are wildly popular with the locals.
In the heart of the city of Hazratganj, large gatherings start assembling from 5 am at a famous tea stall to get a piping hot cup of milky masala chai, presented in earthenware cups, along with fluffy buns slathered with freshly churned white butter.
To start the day, one can make their way to a simple joint operating in the historic quarter of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was established, the place is still in great demand for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Safeguarding a Culinary Heritage
The city also boasts unique seasonal delights, such as makkhan malai, a cloud-like dessert found in the winter. The process of making it is scientific and involved. The vendor hand-churns the milk and then leaves it out at night, allowing the dew to give it its incredible airy feel.
On cold mornings, street vendors line up in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. Many though note that their younger generation are unwilling to take up the art.
A well-known culinary expert from Lucknow has often said that the city's immense food legacy places it among the best of the Indian street food experience. The true benefit from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will be realized only if Lucknow can now build recognition about its lesser-known eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow tells a story – shaped by generational food businesses, from modest street carts to bustling restaurants, and secret family recipes.
The global recognition, it is believed, will encourage more people worldwide to learn these narratives and visit the city to taste the culinary delights of Lucknow.
